STACY’S CAPE HARBOUR ROYALE

Originally posted on December 06, 2006

The latest James Bond stirs up an old cocktail in the new high-octane spy film "Casino Royale." Bond traditionally orders a "vodka martini, shaken, not stirred." But new superspy actor Daniel Craig rejects the signature cocktail of the previous Bond actors and orders his cocktail exactly as Ian Fleming concocted it in 1952, "three measures of Gordon's, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it over ice, then add a thin slice of lemon peel."

But I was wondering. Could that drink taste like it would have when Fleming wrote those words and no doubt drank that drink? Lillet greatly reduced the amount of quinine in the aromatized white wine and fruit aperitif sometime in the mid-'80s. The quinine would have lent a bitter zip to the cocktail for which the British developed a taste during their "days of the Raj." The daily dose of quinine was meant to ward off malaria.

Gordon's gin (I think) tastes better in the United Kingdom. The dark green glass bottle contains a classic gin with a gorgeous pounce of juniper, and whiffs of citrus and coriander. But still, Bond demands a cocktail that is "large, strong, very cold and well-made." With the Gordon's at a meager 80 proof, perhaps Bond would prefer the 94.6 proof Tanqueray.

The Dry Manhattan is a better showcase of Lillet's subtle wiles. Made in Bordeaux from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes, it is macerated with fruits, herbs and brandy and is a versatile mixer or simply sipped by itself well-chilled, accompanied by an orange slice.

I lured bar chef Stacy Murdock (who's responsible for all those tasty concoctions at Rumrunners) into the intrigue. "Let's make this old-school drink, and see if it's stood the test of time." We arranged to do a taste test at Rumrunners bar last Thursday at 9:30 a.m. — certainly not too early to solve a mystery.

I had to bring the Lillet and the Gordon's — Rumrunners didn't have them, saying no one ever requests them.

Neither of us had high hopes for the retro libation, named The Vesper, after Bond's love interest, Vesper Lynd. Did Bond name it after her, Vesper asks in the film, "because of the bitter aftertaste?"

But the drink has other issues according to Stacy, questioning the recipe's dilution of gin with vodka. She had already created another drink that she said would be more deserving of the sexy new star.

But first she mixed Fleming's tipple, and we tasted. Hmmm, no wow factor there, we agreed. More like a bartender's version of tough love, I thought.

We roused Louise Stout, busy on the phone booking Christmas parties, and asked if she'd come over and taste. She's a Brit with a sensible British palate. What did she think? "It's fine, perhaps just a bit dull," she said.

Now onto Stacy's new concoction. "James Bond would prefer this cocktail," she said of her creation. It's classier and very smooth with a great mouth-feel." Bond is well traveled, she said, and likes the best of everything.

The updated cocktail is made with premium everything. Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenaire, (about $130 a bottle) Van Gogh Orange Vodka, and a secret tang that comes from a celebrated Australian dessert wine, Lilly Pilly Noble Blend.

The conclusion: a cocktail achievement, I enthused. "James Bond would love it!" praised Louise.